September 13, 2013

An OTC Classic Shirt Design...with Asymmetric Neckline and Chisel Hem

This shirt is one of my "classic designs", which sounds very La-dee-da, but really just means that is was made for one of my clients quite a while ago.  <<smile>> 

This client called this morning and ordered another just like it (different fabric, of course..that has yet to be decided) wish me luck that I can find his pattern again after 3 years...or I'll be drafting a new one!  In any case, I thought I'd show this shirt to you again because it has some interesting details. 

These details include an asymmetrical band collar that joins a narrow front button placket, and an angled "chiseled" hem, rather than a curved one. Other design features include very light gray contrast stitching, a Chiselled (spade) Hem, and a "Cigar Pocket".  I also decided not to use light gray buttons, and use less predictable dark gray buttons instead.

SEWING NOTES: The Left Front pattern piece was drafted with less of a neckline curve (slightly shallower) than the right, so that the band collar falls open when worn.  Pro-Woven Shirt-Crisp Fusible Interfacing and "By the Scoop" Buttons are from Fashion Sewing Supply, the textured cotton fabric came from my personal "Shirt-making Stash".


  1. Love the details. Had to chuckle about the "cigar pocket." Do you ask what type of cigars the client smokes in order to make the pocket fit the correct diameter of cigar? Wow, talk about custom fitting! LOL!

  2. Tee-Hee! many things in life, I just hope it fits, LOL! Actually, I should be more PC and all it a "pen-slot pocket"...but that just doesn't have the same panache :)

  3. Sqweee! Love the spade hem. And thank you for the collar tip. You always bedazzle and amaze!

  4. That's a great shirt, the pocket and the hem makes it really original!
    Good luck on your pattern search!
    MammaNene @

  5. Wow! One.great.shirt.

  6. I am so curious about the collar design you mentioned. It´s one of those details I feel you can only consider when you are a pro like yourself. If you ever have time to explain how that works, I would really be interested not to mention eternally thankful.

  7. I hope that you find the pattern! It's a great shirt.

  8. I, too, am intrigued with the collar treatment. The subtle flip on one side is distinctive and elegant. I hope you can do a tiny tutorial on how to achieve the look, or make directions available. You mentioned a slightly shallower curve on one side, so we can experiment using that statement, but more explicit information would sure be helpful.

    The men who wear your shirts are very fortunate!

  9. Nice shirt! My husband wants me to make him a shirt - but I have yet to find a decent pattern. This looks great.

  10. Fascinating to see the details on a custom-made shirt, Pam.


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